August 8, 2019
During my tour of the Jewish District the other day, I was disappointed that we didn’t get to go into any of the old synagogues. I promised myself that I would return to take my time walking the route we had taken. This morning was my opportunity.
I started at the Old Synagogue. On the exterior, the white buildings added on to the synagogue at some point are where the women were allowed to pray.
While no longer active, it was once the center of the Jewish community. Now a museum, it has an excellent exhibition explaining (in Polish and English) the sacred and holy Jewish days and certain aspects of Jewish life.
It also has a great exhibit on rabbis in Krakow.
In one of the rooms off to the side of the main prayer area, some of the pre-war inscriptions have been saved.
Despite the number of people milling through the exhibits, I found the space to be lovely and serene. Of course, I was fascinated by the vaulted ceiling and chandeliers (as always).
Back outside, I wandered down Szeroka Street, the main cobblestone street of the area. Now lined with shops, cafes, and galleries, if you look, you will also find monuments to those who perished in the war and those who helped Jews escape.
The Popper Synagogue is now a bookstore. I was once again drawn to the mural in the entryway to the courtyard. I couldn’t the name of the artist, but it really reminds me of the work of my favorite Israeli artist Zamy Steynovitz as is very Chagall-esque (only brighter).
On the wall outside the bookstore, were several quotes; I particularly liked this one:
The bookstore itself is very interesting – it has books in several languages, Judaica, maps, etc. I’m sure I could have spent a lot more time browsing than I did.
Across the street is the Remuh Synagogue, which is still an active place of worship. In fact, while I was there, several young men were studying the Torah in the back hall. The interior of the synagogue is quite small but beautiful.
Out behind the synagogue is the only existing cemetery in the Jewish District.
While it appears a bit wild and unkempt due to the long grass, it is being lovingly restored. The restoration includes power washing the gravestones to reveal what lies under decades, if not centuries of dirt and debris. A large area of the cemetery was cordoned off as the work progressed.
The most significant part of the cemetery for me was the wall that has been built using pieces of tombstones that were broken or destroyed in WWII. It really touched my heart as it is one more reminder of how many lives were shattered by the evil deeds of others.
After getting myself turned around a bit (sometimes the GPS and I don’t get along), I made my way to the Temple Synagogue, which was established in 1860 by a reform congregation. It is the largest active synagogue in Krakow. I thought the interior was beautiful, particularly the ceiling (of course), and the stained glass. It is clear that the congregation takes pride in keeping the prayer areas maintained.
Besides Kazimierz, the other significant Jewish area in Krakow is the ghetto. I wasn’t able to go on the ghetto tour, but during the afternoon I crossed the river into a portion of it. What is emblazoned in my mind is a portion of the wall built to keep Jews separate from the rest of Krakow. The wall itself looks like a row of tall tombstones. Those remaining sections of the wall stand as a reminder of what happened and a memorial to all those who were killed just because of who they were. We must never let it happen again.
On a lighter note, prior to leaving Kazimierz, I visited Plac Nowy, the “new square,” where the old kosher butcher stands used to be. Now a gathering place for a daily farmer’s market and food stalls open until all hours of the night, I selected one of the vendors and ordered a Zapiekanki. This Polish “fast food” consists of a half of a baguette (longer than my forearm), covered in mushrooms and cheese, then topped with whatever items and sauces you want to add. I went with the Farmerska (Farmer’s) Zapiekanki with chicken and tomatoes and added BBQ and garlic sauces. Once everything is added, they bake the “sandwich” which makes everything ooey and gooey.
It was a lot of food, or it would have been if most of it hadn’t tumbled down the front of my shirt, onto my pants, and then onto the ground. It was extremely unwieldy and difficult to eat. I think I only ate about six bites. The pigeons though delighted in the difficulty I was having since pretty much everything ended up on the ground. I decided to wallow in my disappointing attempt to conquer a Zapiekanki by stopping at Good Lood for salted caramel ice cream. Not a wasted lunch after all.
I love your analysis of Polish history and Polish food equally! Your photographs that are paired with the post truly bring the experience to life.
Thank you. You and your mom are my No. 1 supporters. 🙂